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Articles: Laid-back Rottnest

Posted by admin on Tuesday, June 22, 2004 - 03:56 AM

The cat-sized marsupial looked up with the blank innocence of a creature without fear, then went back to nibbling on a bush, totally unconcerned with this human onlooker.
Quokkas are like that, I soon learned – and on Western australia's Rottnest Island, there are plenty of the intriguing creatures. About 10,000 quokkas call Rottnest home, and it's easy to get close as they hop around their domain. One cute creature allowed two excited Japanese tourists to stroke it while I snapped a photo with their camera. We christened him Barry Quokka, although I'm not sure the tourists quite got the joke. Dutch explorer Willem de Vlamingh described them as "a kind of rat as big as a common cat" when he visited in 1696 and christened the place Rotte Nest, or Rats' Nest Island. From that rather unflattering beginning, Rottnest has developed into a slice of paradise just half an hour by fast ferry from Fremantle. It has been used variously as a farm and a prison, but since 1902 it has been a reserve – and a favoured getaway for people from Perth. Little wonder. It has great beaches (surf and paddling) and a fringe of coral reefs that provide excellent snorkelling and scuba diving within an easy swim from the shore. Private cars are banned on Rottnest, adding enormously to its laid-back appeal. Bikes are the preferred mode of transport and can be hired from ferry companies or at the wharf. There are also bus tours, including a hop-on, hop-off explorer service. Rottnest Island is 11km long by 4.5km at its widest point – an ideal size for exploring by bike on a day trip, with still plenty of time for a swim and a leisurely lunch. Ferries from Perth and Fremantle pull in at Thomson Bay, a small settlement of ochre colonial limestone buildings that include an information centre, restaurants, coffee shops and accommodation, and with plenty of upmarket boats in the harbour. Within minutes of hopping on a bike, you're out of the small town and into the bushland, along with Barry Quokka and his mates. Cruising past lakes, you realise there's more to the wildlife than quokkas – the island has loads of birds and plenty of lizards and snakes, including venomous dugites. Rottnest also has its share of shipwrecks, such as those visible from Henrietta Rocks. The classic turquoise water and sandy coves of its protected bays and surf beaches present a dilemma for the bike rider: where to stop? Each curve of the sinuous coastal track reveals an inviting new beach. So do you stop and enjoy it or keep going in case there's one even better around the corner? My advice: check the wind. Most spots are as good as the next, but if there's a slight breeze, you can usually find a protected nook. At one cove, a leisurely snorkel quickly gave a peek into the underwater world of fish and colourful coral going about their business. The marine park is home to around 360 species of fish and 20 types of coral. The water wasn't too cold, even at this time of year, and there were plenty of surfers and boogie-board riders at the many surf breaks dotted around the island. Rottnest isn't particularly hilly, and many families set out on their bike tour with children, but you can hire tandems and carriages for the little ones. Apart from Thomson Bay, there are a handful of accommodation spots around the island, most in high demand during peak holiday seasons. A day trip to Rottnest from Perth is a fabulous day out, but be warned – as the ferry heads back to the mainland, you'll be left wanting more.

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